He led the first Italian ascent of the Eiger north face in 1962, together with Pierlorenzo Acquistapace, Gildo Airoldi, Andrea Mellano, Romano Perego and Franco Solina.
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The book tells the story of the first Italian ascent of the Eiger north face.
The other significant peaks he skied from include north-east face of Eiger, east face of Matterhorn and Mt. Blanc.
Nightfall, a short story about a climb of the Eiger Nordwand at the outbreak of World War 3, in the short-lived The Irish Climber magazine (MCI, 1983)
Fascinated by a book recounting harrowing tales of tragic attempts to climb the North Face of the Eiger, he started climbing in a nearby quarry in 1966.
Previously he had made the second ascent of the North Face of the Eiger in 1947, with Lionel Terray.
His book, Direttissima; the Eiger Assault, also published under the title, Eiger Direct, co-authored with Dougal Haston, published in 1967, told the story of the ascent of the Eiger North Face in which John Harlin II lost his life.
The now highest Carstensz Pyramid summit was not climbed until 1962, by an expedition led by the Austrian mountaineer Heinrich Harrer (of Seven Years in Tibet fame, and climber of the Eiger North Face) with three other expedition members – Philip Temple, Russell Kippax and Albertus Huizenga.
As a mountaineer, he made a name for himself with the first ascent of the Mittellegigrat (the northeast ridge of the Eiger) on 10 September 1921, serving as guide for Maki Yūkō along with fellow guides Fritz Amatter and Fritz Steuri.
The Beckoning Silence is a 2007 British television film that follows and retraces the unsuccessful attempt to scale the north face of the Eiger led by Toni Kurz in 1936.
For the second, he will need to join a group of climbers who are about to attempt the north face of the Eiger, a particularly difficult challenge.
After soloing the north face of the Col du Plan, he climbed: the Bonatti Pillar, Aiguille du Dru; the Freney Pillar directissima, Mont Blanc; Gervussutti Pillar, Mt Blanc du Tacul; Walker Spur, Grandes Jorrasses; Brenva Spur, Mt Blanc; Eiger north face, Droites north face.